WDR Roofing Company Austin - Roof Repair & Replacement
Austin, TX, USA
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Here is what you wrote: "I know that there isn't any caulk/sealant in between the aspect of your beam along with the position wherever the drywall butts in opposition to it, so You will find a small air gap there. My memory is that fiberglass insulation was used. There is certainly no vent in the roof."
Nicely the roof is going on with the initial layer of insulation (on-top rated the purlins, under the roof sheeting). There seems for being ample Place left within the four" purlin cavity for the next layer of R11 to be mounted without any modification.
The old Canadian rule of thumb -- at least two/three of the full R-value on the outside side from the vapor barrier -- is often a tough-and-ready way to handle this problem; It is also attainable to solution the issue by performing a dew-point Examination or a WUFI Examination.
Does it sound right to spray and Lower roofing company orlando and cobble four inch shut mobile foam/board on underside of sheathing accompanied by fiberglass In the bays and one inch of eps/iso under the rafter (to halt thermal bridging) before ending with drywall? Will I produce a vapor sandwich and better depart the ultimate EPS and acknowledge the thermal bridging?
Be sure to install insulation that presents at web least the bare minimum code necessity for ceiling R-worth. Insulation that exceeds the minimum code requirement is even better.
In order look these up to develop an unvented insulated roof assembly, you most likely don't need to disturb the tile roofing. That implies that probably the most ideal insulation will be spray polyurethane foam. Obviously, the present insulation should be eliminated right before you put in the spray foam.
It is a code violation to set up an air-permeable insulation like fiberglass batts involving unvented rafters. It's also a nasty thought, because humidity can accumulate on the roof sheathing if you try this technique, and you will turn out with sheathing rot.
Thanks - this is new construction, I'm the designer / builder, and the more I examine it, I am liking all rigid - less fussy. The best layer of rigid in excess of fluffy would make my eave also thick in any case. The air barrier for the T&G ceiling is definitely the sandwich of felt and taped three/8" CDX.
I looked at the unvented schematics and I am not positive that matches the bill for up listed here (Canada - west coast).
In the choice, if we can't do a ventless roof that way, can we accomplish our full insulation requirements by combining the above and below deck R-Values if we top it all with a vented over-roof? Many thanks for your time and effort along with your tips! Dan
Finally, I kow the recessed lights is Awful, but what am i able to do whether it is by now mounted? With among the lights I improved it around to the pendant light-weight which reduced the heat near the roof but the air barrier is still a situation.
I reside in northern Vermont, and I don't have ample encounter with air con to answer your question about condensation on inside ducts.